The Nile threading the great S-bend of Nubia

Der Atlas

Achtzehn Staaten. Ein Sudan.

Von den Pyramiden des Flussnordens zu den Granitkuppeln des Ostens, dem Vulkan des Westens und den Feuchtgebieten des Südens — das ganze Land, Staat für Staat.

I

Die Nordregion

Der Korridor der Königreiche — wo der Nil sich durch Nubien windet.

Hauptstadt · Dongola

Nordstaat

Hauptstadt · Ed Damer

Nilstaat

II

Die Ostregion

Korallenmeere, Granitkuppeln und grüne Sturzbäche im Schatten der Wüste.

Hauptstadt · Port Sudan

Rotmeer-Staat

Hauptstadt · Kassala

Kassala-Staat

Hauptstadt · Gedaref

Al-Qadarif-Staat

II · i

Halayeb und Schalatin.

Sudans Nordostküste — 20.580 km² Rotmeerküste, Berge und Beja-Weideland.

Where the Red Sea coast runs north from Port Sudan, the shore does not stop at a line of latitude. It carries on through Abu Ramad, the port of Halayeb and the settlement of Shalateen — a stretch of mountain, wadi and coral coast that has belonged to the Beja for as long as anyone has counted.

Two lines on a colonial map

In 1899 the Anglo-Egyptian Condominium Agreement drew a political boundary straight along the 22nd parallel north — a surveyor's line, indifferent to who actually lived there. Three years later, on 4 November 1902, Britain drew a second line: an administrative boundary intended to reflect the real use of the land by the tribes of the region.

That 1902 line placed the territory north of the parallel — the grazing lands of the Bishareen, a Beja sub-tribe — under Sudanese administration, because the people there belonged to Sudan's east and answered to the governor in Khartoum, not Cairo. Sudan has held to the 1902 boundary ever since independence in 1956, and in its own claim and official presentation the area belongs to Red Sea State. Egypt has exercised de facto administration since the mid-1990s.

A land of the Beja

The case was never really about cartography. It is about kinship. The Bishareen and Ababda who live between Halayeb and Shalateen are the same Beja people who fill the markets of Port Sudan and Kassala, speak the same Tu-Bedawie, herd the same camels, and carry the same swords at the same weddings. Around 24,000 people live at Shalateen alone.

It is austere, dramatic country: granite peaks rising off the water, Mount Shendib at 1,911 metres, seasonal wadis running green after rain, and a coral coastline continuous with the reefs of Sanganeb and Dungonab to the south.

Where the matter stands

Egypt asserts the 1899 parallel and has exercised de facto control since the mid-1990s. Sudan maintains the 1902 administrative boundary and has consistently called for the question to be settled by international arbitration — the ordinary, lawful means of resolving such a claim between neighbours. This archive maps the territory as Sudanese, on the 1902 line, and states the position plainly.

Sources: Anglo-Egyptian Condominium Agreement, 1899, and the British administrative boundary of 4 November 1902 · Wikipedia, Halaib Triangle and Shalateen · CIA, Sudan — Administrative Divisions map, which carries the note: "Sudan claims but Egypt de facto administers security and economic development of the Hala'ib Triangle north of the 22nd parallel boundary" · WorldAtlas, The Egypt–Sudan Border Dispute.
III

Die Mitte

Wo die beiden Nile heiraten und die Kornkammer sich dazwischen ausbreitet.

Hauptstadt · Khartum

Khartum-Staat

Hauptstadt · Wad Madani

Al-Gezira-Staat

IV

Die Westregion — Darfur

Fünf Staaten um einen grünen Vulkan — Obstgärten in der Höhe, Sultanspaläste, Zitrustäler.

Hauptstadt · El Fasher

Nord-Darfur

Hauptstadt · Nyala

Süd-Darfur

Hauptstadt · El Geneina

West-Darfur

Hauptstädte · Ed Daein & Zalingei

Ost- & Zentral-Darfur

V

Kordofan & der große Süden

Land des Gummiarabikums, Ringer-Berge und die Insel, auf der eine Revolution begann.

Hauptstädte · El Obeid, Kadugli, El Fula

Die drei Kordofans

Hauptstädte · Ad Damazin, Rabak, Singa

Blauer Nil · Weißer Nil · Sennar

VI

Die Wasser Sudans

Sechs große Dämme halten die Flüsse — Energie, Ernte und die langsame Ingenieurskunst eines Jahrhunderts.

VII

Drei Wunder

Ein Löwentempel, ein Leuchtturm auf einem Korallenatoll und eine Wasserstelle, an der die älteste Tierwelt des Nils noch trinkt.

The Lion Temple of Apedemak at Naqa

Nilstaat

Naqa

Der Löwentempel des Apedemak steht neben einem römischen Kiosk — zwei Reiche auf einer Lichtung der meroitischen Wüste.

The lighthouse on Sanganeb atoll in the Red Sea

Rotmeer-Staat

Sanganeb

Ein Leuchtturm auf einem Ring lebenden Korallenriffs, vierzig Kilometer vor der Küste — Sudans erste UNESCO-Meeresstätte.

Waterbuck and storks at a Dinder National Park waterhole

Sennar & Al Qadarif

Dinder

An den Wasserstellen der Trockenzeit in Sudans ältestem Nationalpark teilen sich Wasserböcke, Marabus und Reiher einen Tümpel.

VIII

Die alten Hauptstädte

The royal pyramids at Nuri near Napata
The Throne Hall and qubbas of Old Dongola

Ali Dinar Palace · El Fasher

Photograph coming soonالصورة قريباً

Sufi qubbas · Abu Haraz

Photograph coming soonالصورة قريباً